It is unusual for there to be any real problem when buying a corset, but on some occasions problems arise. This is a simple guide for those looking to buy a corset and not be conned by one of the corset cowboys out there

Off the peg

Most corsets are off the peg, made for an average height and available in waist sizes of 2 inch increments (24" 26" 28" etc...). You choose a corset size 2-4 inches smaller than your own waist measurement and if you are of commercial dress size proportions and height it should fit OK.

Any corset should be steel boned as described in the What is a corset? section, if the bone is plastic it will bend easily and the corset will become mis-shapen quickly with use; sprung steel will feel quite stiff but flexible and will take longer to warp; spiral wires are rarely used in off the peg corsets as they cost more but never warp. This type of bone will be flexible in all directions, not just crossways. If in doubt ask the retailer and if they are half way decent they will know what type of boning is used.

An off the peg corset can cost anything from £60 for a cheap make, upwards and average around £100. Beware a corset that is too cheap - it may be made with plastic bones or may not even be a real corset!

Bespoke / Couture (Made to Measure)

If you have the time and the extra money needed then it is always best to have a corset made for you. A corset is not only body fitting but body changing and a badly fitted one could not only look bad but also cause you pain!

But with some frauds selling off the peg corsets as bespoke ones how do you know you are getting the real deal?

Firstly measurements - an off the peg corset has only 1-3 measurements to take into account, then you take whatever is closest fit. A bespoke corset requires many more measurements - I personally take up to 12 measurements for an overbust corset.

And then there is the fitting. Do you make up a corset without a fitting first? It would be foolish as different bodies squish different amounts and spinal curvatures can remain hidden until a corset is put on. Corset material is expensive so if a maker takes a few measurements and presents you a few days later with a fully finished garment then check the garment for other companies labels or stubs where one has been removed. Others just choose the closest standard fitting corset of their own making and palm it off on customers at a bespoke price.

A fitting is done with a mock up corset, called a toile, in a plain dull fabric and lightly boned, this mock up is put on you and then fitted to your exact shape - after all it is common for one boob to be slightly larger than the other and so forth. A fitting is essential for that perfect fit and if you are paying extra for a bespoke service then that should include one wherever possible. Sometimes you may want to forego the fitting due to distance but for any full length corset it is highly recommended.

The finished garment should fit you like a glove, you should be able to sit down in it without it digging in to your pubic bone or up into your armpits. There should be a two inch wide gap down the back after lacing and if your corset closes completely after lacing then this is the wrong size for you and you should refuse to accept it.

Once you have had one corset made the corsetier will keep your pattern safe and your next corset should cost less to make as you will not need another fitting unless you change size significantly

If you are caught in a con? Bought shoddy goods?

When buying something of this price you always need to have an address for the business - if they refuse to give you an address then don't buy. Anyone making goods to sell, especially for this amount, must do so as a business and be registered as one by law. All businesses come under the jurisdiction of Trading Standards who should be a last resort but are very effective at resolving situations.

What problems might you have?

It doesn't fit - this is the easiest problem, try it on before final payment and if it doesn't fit then refuse the garment and request what you paid for. Even if you have paid in advance for the order you still have a legal right to a garment that fits as ordered. The only exception is if your body size has changed significantly since your fitting and your order being prepared, a matter that is easily checked.

If you have ordered an off the peg corset online then please be careful to select the size carefully and even email for advice as to which size you'd need for your measurements. If you make a mistake most places will accept returns and send out a different size.

Corset bones have warped - This is common especially with plastic bones which will warp badly with just one wearing. If you bought it cheap as a plastic boned garment then learn a lesson from it! If it was bought as a costly steel boned corset take it back to the retailer if it has become mis-shapen quickly. Sprung steel bones also warp in time but not so badly as plastic, it takes longer and tends to be around the waistline from bending over. The only type of bone that does not warp with normal wear is the spiral wire bones, these are reserved for the best corsets due to being expensive components. If you buy a corset with spiral steel bones you should be able to take it off after a night out and lay it flat and the bones will all straighten themselves out - all others will retain a little of your body shape. If you buy a corset described as having spirals and it retains bends easily, or dramatically, with short term to normal wear, then it quite likely this is not a spiral boned corset. (all corsets require sprung steel down the centre back to support the lacing though). With heavy or frequent wear even spirals can take on some of your body shape when removed.

If you think you have a corset of a lesser quality boning than requested you could seek the advice of a different corsetier of experience corset wearer. If you have paid for one thing and received something else you are entitled to a refund.

The bones have come out - Unfortunately I have seen this happen several times on shoddy made garments sold at bespoke prices. The bone (it can be any type) has been inserted into the corset with the ends left sharp, as a result it cuts its way through the fabric of the corset and into the wearer - most commonly at the armpit but can happen anywhere.

This is very dangerous and there is no excuse for a bone not being ended. It takes seconds to end each bone and if it takes a few minutes in time overall, the materials used are negligible cost and many varieties or end caps available.

If this happens and a raw metal or plastic bone cuts out of your corset and whether or not it cuts you, don't play nice guys - get straight to trading standards! I have seen ladies in tears and dramatic pouring with blood from some corsetier's merchandise, garments that they should not be allowed to continue making and palming off as high quality wares - if it happens to you, you can stop them and you will get your money back on the corset too.

The only exception to this would be if the bone is capped (you can tell at a glance) and not sharp and the maker has not finished the edge properly - they should repair this for free as they are the ones at fault.