Despite the name known to so many most people do not know what defines a true corset. Basques and lightly boned bodices are bandied about under the name corset without fulfilling the nature of this mesmerizing and unique garment.

Traditionally thought of as a ladies undergarment the corset has been dragged into the 21st century in this new age of burlesque and the demand for modern fashion corsets has increased massively in recent years. Not only ladies wear corsets; gentlemen's corsets are most flattering and of course the transgendered community favour the feminine shape corsets give under or over clothing.

A corset can come in many shapes; underbust, waspie, overbust, victorian, etc... Whatever the styling a corset does not just look pretty or sexy - it actually reshapes the human body into a more hourglass form, Persuading the waist to reduce generally by 2-4 inches, giving that distinctive curve and, in the case of overbust corsets, to have our busts defy our old enemy - gravity. To do this it needs certain factors to be present, even if at a glance it looks like a corset. Work through this simple checklist:

Back lacing: This is a set of grommets on either side of the back opening; flanking the grommets on either side of the grommet is a sprung steel flat bone. If the grommets don't have a bone close against either side of them it isn't built for tight lacing. If a corset meets completely down the back it is too big for you - a gap of about 2 inches when tightened is recommended when buying a new corset.

There are also various types of lacing that can be used from ribbons to flat woven bootlace cord to circular woven cord, the is no right type of cord but avoid those formed by twisting and anything that has any give or stretch. See the buyers guide for tips on fitting and how to spot lesser quality items!

Busk: There is usually a front fastening though one is not essential; ones without a front fastening just need longer laces at the back and have to be pulled on over the head. A busk is a pair of metal strips with metal loops on one and pop studs on the other that clip together into a firm flat fastening. The laces are loosened at the back, the busk is done up first and then the laces are tightened.

The busk will have two studs at one end that are much closer together than the others - this is the bottom end and offers more tummy support. There are a few types of busk available with the flexi-busk most popular, some types of corset, especially tight laced ones, may require a tougher type.

Fabric: The fabric will be a very strong tight weave - a corset doesn't stretch! If it is a fashion fabric outer it should have this tight weave fabric underneath. The most recommended of these fabrics is coutil, a high quality supreme fabric which combines strength with a lighter weight finish. Coutil was developed specifically for corsetry and although a few other modern fabrics can be used for strength, coutil is the only one that will give you the lightweight single layer corset and still hold its form.

Bones: These should always be metal, plastic bones will bend and stay mis-shapen; plastic bones shouldn't be used in any finished corset. A good corsetier will explain what bones are being used when discussing your needs. Plastic coated sprung steel is the only bone suited for the back lacing section of the corset, it can be used throughout but is more rigid and although firmer support is less comfortable than spiral wires (explained below).

Narrow sprung steel will also bend over time on tighter curves - you can tell a corset with these bones as when you take it off it will not lie flat and instead have taken on your curves.

The ultimate steel bone for corsetry is spiral wire steel boning, this mimics the rightly outlawed whalebone giving it ultimate flexibility and comfort. These are often used or in more expensive items as the boning is specialist and costly. As spiral wire boning is light support sometimes a combination of both spiral and flat steel bones are required, for example a large busted lady would require flat sprung steels for better bust support. Your corsetier should discuss this with you.

Modesty Panel: An optional extra panel at the back of the corset, underneath the lacing. This covers the skin underneath the lacing which some people prefer for modesty.

Suspenders: Also optional and often detachable. Completely personal choice and not essential to the garment itself .

Cable Cord: A cord or ribbon that runs inside the top edge binding of the corset and can be pulled tight for a snug fit on the bust, this helps contain spillage which is especially risky with victorian style corsets that cut straight across mid bust. Not many corset makers use these and while handy it is not essential


I hope this has helped you understand what makes a corset and what a work of engineering it really is. Look out for these factors when choosing yours, most notably the boning, fabric and the lacing